Colchuck Lake + Upper Enchantments

Hiked in: Saturday, October 5, 2019

Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Roundtrip: ~16 miles

Highest pt: 7,841 ft

Elevation gain: 4,300 ft

Ah, October… the perfect fall hiking conditions for dramatic yellow larches, super comfortable trekking temperatures and a high probability of freezing your buns off the moment you stop moving.

It seemed fitting to be making our way north to Leavenworth on a cloudy Saturday morning. As fellow Washingtonians gathered in their Lederhosen and prepped their beer steins for Oktoberfest, my crew and I were pulling into the Stuart Lake trailhead (#1599), stoked to spend a few chilly days in the woods. I chugged the entirety of my coffee as we looked for parking, so the line between excitement and over-caffeination quickly began to blur. We double-checked our pack contents (wine, check – Pringles, check – Frito BBQ Twists, check) and started on our way. I will note here that, yes, I do eat like complete garbage when in the backcountry. Thank you for noticing.

Our first destination was Colchuck Lake, the glimmering gateway into the jaw-dropping Enchantments.

It’s a moderate, but steep 5-mile hike to the lake that is enjoyed by people from all over. We made our way along Mountaineer Creek into the dense forest, tall trees and thick foliage relishing in the damp and shadowy understory. About a mile and a half in, we took a quick break at an impressive log bridge to fill up on fresh water and a few shots of Fireball. Weekend officially initiated.

As the trail steepened, the canopy began to open and giant boulder fields came into view. Soon, we reached a fork in the trail: Stuart Lake trail continued to the right, so we hung a Louie and continued left towards Colchuck. The creek still bubbled alongside us as we weaved our way across the massive rocks. I managed to knock my knee on just about every other one on the way, and even while writing this almost 3 weeks later, my right knee still hasn’t forgiven me.

Swift switchbacks moseyed ahead. I stopped once in awhile to catch my breath and turn around. The valley we just climbed out of sat far below; the jagged top of Dragontail Peak, the beacon of Colchuck Lake, loomed high above. The slushy trail continued to climb. We were so close!

Finally, after a mind and finger numbing slog, the blinding blue waters of Colchuck Lake snapped me back into reality. Dragontail Peak, with its sharp and spiny rocks, looked more like the snowy back of a sleeping dragon rather than a tail. Fresh, white snow accentuated each and every cliff and crevasse on its granite face.

My eyes wandered to the snowy pass to the left of the peak: “Aasgard,” I whispered to myself, imagining I was Aragorn leading the hobbits safely to Mordor. Tomorrow we planned to weave our way up its snow-packed trail, gaining 2,000 feet in less than a mile. Yay.

The recent snowfall made finding a campsite a challenge. If a potential flat spot wasn’t covered in snow, it was on its way to becoming a swamp. Luckily, the water levels of Colchuck were so low that we found a pristine beach spot gazing directly at Dragontail and Aasgard. We set up camp and I donned every single layer I brought as the sun began to disappear behind us. There was only so much whiskey and wine to keep us warm over the next few days.

The next morning, we woke up to a layer of frost on our tents. I stayed swaddled in my sleeping bag as long as possible, begging for the sun to creep just a little quicker (please!?) over the peaks in front of us. Finally, sunlight inched towards camp. I sprawled out on a flat rock, still in all my layers, soaking up every second of warmth, like a lizard under a heat lamp.

It was around 11 am when we decided to make our way towards Aasgard Pass. The trail followed the contours of Colchuck Lake until we were at the bottom of a snow-covered boulder field, the base of Dragontail. About 3 hours of slowly climbing and some (totally justified) complaining later, we crested the pass and feasted our eyes on the handful of frozen lakes in front of us. We had made it!

The Upper Enchantments were powdered in snow and ice, seemingly glittering just for us under the afternoon light. The clock was ticking, though, and the sun would only last so long.

After an hour of eating and exploring, and eating some more, the sun was on its way out, dipping beneath the towering peaks to the west. We hustled as we raced the last of the light downhill. Going back down with the view of Colchuck Lake resting at the bottom of the valley was indescribable. Also, how in the hell did we climb up this vertical mountain pass in feet of snow? How long were we up there? I swear there was more snow now than when we ascended... My mind played tricks on me. I slipped and slid back down the mountain, my trekking poles bearing the critical role as my lifesaver until we reached level ground.

A couple hours later we were back at the boulder field. We caught glimpses of the setting sun through the trees, sending explosions of pastel into the sky. Luckily, we made it back to camp just in time for the ultimate light show.

All was silent as we stood in awe at the cotton candy clouds and the peaks and the moon reflecting on the turquoise lake.

Once the light had faded, the chill immediately set in. Back into my layers I go. Warm drinks and dinner were had, then we retreated into our slightly warmer tents for the night. The next morning, we woke up abruptly to howling wind and our tent nearly collapsed onto us. The placid lake of last night now sounded like a roaring river. Waves crashed on the shore and each wind gust grew stronger as it repeatedly flattened our tent. I peered outside to catch a glimpse of the lake, or what I remembered to be a lake. Now it looked like an angry ocean, raging in the middle of the deep sea. Trees and branches cracked in the forest behind us. Okay, time get me out of here!

Camp was packed up in record time and we hit the trail back to the car. Beers and brats danced through our minds as we descended the mountain and back to Leavenworth. They were a well-deserved and long-awaited treat after a beautiful but exhausting weekend.

Though I am usually a fair-weather backpacker, these snowy conditions were an invigorating experience. I was able to get out of my comfort zone and put my favorite gear, as well as brand new gear, to the test. Layers of fleece, down feather puffies, and windbreakers. All of the socks, long underwear and leggings. Gloves, beanies and scarves. I brought it all. As always, thanks for tagging along!